第46章 BOOK Ⅲ(7)
To begin with,the City.'The island of the City,'as Sauval observes—who,with all his pompous verbosity,sometimes hits upon these happy turns of phrase—'the island of the City is shaped like a great ship sunk into the mud and run aground lengthwise,about mid-stream of the Seine.'As we have already shown,in the fifteenth century this ship was moored to the two banks of the Seine by five bridges.This likeness to a ship had also struck the fancy of the heraldic scribes;for,according to Favyn and Pasquier,it was from this circumstance,and not from the siege by the Normans,that is derived the ship emblazoned in the arms of Paris.To him who can decipher it,heraldry is an algebra,a complete language.The whole history of the later half of the Middle Ages is written in heraldry,as is that of the first half in the symbolism of the Roman churches—the hieroglyphics of feudalism succeeding those of theocracy.
The City,then,first presented itself to the view,with its stern to the east and its prow to the west.Facing towards the prow there stretched an endless line of old roofs,above which rose,broad and domed,the lead-roofed transept of the Sainte-Chapelle,like an elephant with its tower,except that here the tower was the boldest,airiest,most elaborate and serrated spire that ever showed the sky through its fretted cone.Just in front of Notre-Dame three streets opened into the Cathedral close—a fine square of old houses.On the south side of this glowered the furrowed,beetling front of the Htel-Dieu,with its roof as if covered with boils and warts.Then,on every side,right,left,east,and west,all within the narrow circuit of the City,rose the steeples of its twenty-one churches,of all dates,shapes,and sizes,from the low,wormeaten Roman belfry of Saint-Denis du Pas(carcer Glaucini)to the slender,tapering spires of Saint-Pierre aux Bufs and Saint-Landry.Behind Notre-Dame northward,stretched the cloister with its Gothic galleries;southward,the semi-Roman palace of the Bishop,and eastward,an uncultivated piece of ground,the terrain,at the point of the island.Furthermore,in this sea of houses,the eye could distinguish,by the high,perforated mitres of stone which at that period capped even its topmost attic windows,the palace presented by the town,in the reign of Charles VI,to Juvénal des Ursins;a little farther on,the black-barred roofs of the market-shed in the Marché Palus;farther off still,the new chancel of Saint-Germain le Vieux,lengthened in 1458 by taking in a piece of the Rue aux Febves,with here and there a glimpse of causeway,crowded with people,some pillory at a corner of the street,some fine piece of the pavement of Philip Augustus—magnificent flagging,furrowed in the middle for the benefit of the horses,and so badly replaced in the middle of the sixteenth century by the wretched cobblestones called'pavè de la Ligue';some solitary court-yard with one of those diaphanous wrought-iron stair-case turrets they were so fond of in the fifteenth century,one of which is still to be seen in the Rue des Bourdonnais.ly,to the right of the Sainte-Chapelle,westward,the Palais de Justice displayed its group of towers by the water's edge.The trees of the royal gardens,which occupied the western point of the island,hid the ferry-man's islet from view.As for the water,it was hardly visible on either side of the City from the towers of Notre-Dame:the Seine disappeared under the bridges,and the bridges under the houses.
And when one looked beyond these bridges,on which the house-roofs glimmered green—moss-grown before their time from the mists of the river—and turned one's gaze to the left towards the University,the first building which caught the eye was a low,extensive cluster of towers,the Petit-Chatelet,whose yawning gateway swallowed up the end of the Petit-Pont.Then,if you ran your eye along the river bank from east to west,from the Tournelle to the Tour de Nesle,it was one long line of houses with sculptured beams,coloured windows,overhanging storeys jutting out over the roadway—an interminable zigzag of gabled houses broken frequently by the opening of some street,now and then by the frontage or corner of some grand mansion with its gardens and its court-yards,its wings and outbuildings;standing proudly there in the midst of this crowding,hustling throng of houses,like a grand seigneur among a mob of rustics.There were five or six of these palaces along the quay,from the Logis de Lorraine,which shared with the Bernardines the great neighbouring enclosure of the Tournelle,to the Tour de Nesle,the chief tower of which formed the boundary of Paris,and whose pointed gables were accustomed,for three months of the year,to cut with their black triangles the scarlet disk of the setting sun.
Altogether,this side of the Seine was the least mercantile of the two:there was more noise and crowding of scholars than artisans,and there was no quay,properly speaking,except between the Pont Saint-Michel and the Tour de Nesle.The rest of the river bank was either a bare strand,like that beyond the Bernardine Monastery,or a row of houses with their feet in the water,as between the two bridges.This was the domain of the washerwomen;here they called to one another,chattered,laughed,and sang,from morning till night along the river side,while they beat the linen vigorously—as they do to this day,contributing not a little to the gaiety of Paris.