第3章

Associations and traditions, that in every part of the United States had served as letters of introduction, and enabled strangers to identify and label him, were to the white men on the steamer and at the ports of call without meaning or value.That he was an Everett of Boston conveyed little to those who had not heard even of Boston.That he was the correspondent of Lowell's Weekly meant less to those who did not know that Lowell's Weekly existed.And when, in confusion, he proffered his letter of credit, the very fact that it called for a thousand pounds was, in the eyes of a "Palm Oil Ruffian," sufficient evidence that it had been forged or stolen.He soon saw that solely as a white man was he accepted and made welcome.That he was respectable, few believed, and no one cared.To be taken at his face value, to be refused at the start the benefit of the doubt, was a novel sensation; and yet not unpleasant.It was a relief not to be accepted only as Everett the Muckraker, as a professional reformer, as one holier than others.

It afforded his soul the same relaxation that his body received when, in his shirt-sleeves in the sweltering smoking-room, he drank beer with a chef de poste who had been thrice tried for murder.

Not only to every one was he a stranger, but to him everything was strange; so strange as to appear unreal.This did not prevent him from at once recognizing those things that were not strange, such as corrupt officials, incompetence, mismanagement.He did not need the missionaries to point out to him that the Independent State of the Congo was not a colony administered for the benefit of many, but a vast rubber plantation worked by slaves to fill the pockets of one man.It was not in his work that Everett found himself confused.It was in his attitude of mind toward almost every other question.

At first, when he could not make everything fit his rule of thumb, he excused the country tolerantly as a "topsy-turvy" land.He wished to move and act quickly; to make others move quickly.He did not understand that men who had sentenced themselves to exile for the official term of three years, or for life, measured time only by the date of their release.When he learned that even a cablegram could not reach his home in less than eighteen days, that the missionaries to whom he brought letters were a three months'

journey from the coast and from each other, his impatience was chastened to wonder, and, later, to awe.

His education began at Matadi, where he waited until the river steamer was ready to start for Leopoldville.Of the two places he was assured Matadi was the better, for the reason that if you still were in favor with the steward of the ship that brought you south, he might sell you a piece of ice.

Matadi was a great rock, blazing with heat.Its narrow, perpendicular paths seemed to run with burning lava.Its top, the main square of the settlement, was of baked clay, beaten hard by thousands of naked feet.Crossing it by day was an adventure.The air that swept it was the breath of a blast-furnace.

Everett found a room over the shop of a Portuguese trader.It was caked with dirt, and smelled of unnamed diseases and chloride of lime.In it was a canvas cot, a roll of evil-looking bedding, a wash-basin filled with the stumps of cigarettes.In a corner was a tin chop-box, which Everett asked to have removed.It belonged, the landlord told him, to the man who, two nights before, had occupied the cot and who had died in it.Everett was anxious to learn of what he had died.Apparently surprised at the question, the Portuguese shrugged his shoulders.

"Who knows?" he exclaimed.The next morning the English trader across the street assured Everett there was no occasion for alarm.

"He didn't die of any disease," he explained."Somebody got at him from the balcony, while he was in his cot, and knifed him."The English trader was a young man, a cockney, named Upsher.At home he had been a steward on the Channel steamers.Everett made him his most intimate friend.He had a black wife, who spent most of her day in a four-post bed, hung with lace curtains and blue ribbon, in which she resembled a baby hippopotamus wallowing in a bank of white sand.

At first the black woman was a shock to Everett, but after Upsher dismissed her indifferently as a "good old sort," and spent one evening blubbering over a photograph of his wife and "kiddie" at home, Everett accepted her.His excuse for this was that men who knew they might die on the morrow must not be judged by what they do to-day.The excuse did not ring sound, but he dismissed the doubt by deciding that in such heat it was not possible to take serious questions seriously.In the fact that, to those about him, the thought of death was ever present, he found further excuse for much else that puzzled and shocked him.At home, death had been a contingency so remote that he had put it aside as something he need not consider until he was a grandfather.At Matadi, at every moment of the day, in each trifling act, he found death must be faced, conciliated, conquered.At home he might ask himself, "If Ieat this will it give me indigestion?" At Matadi he asked, "If Idrink this will I die?"

Upsher told him of a feud then existing between the chief of police and an Italian doctor in the State service.Interested in the outcome only as a sporting proposition, Upsher declared the odds were unfair, because the Belgian was using his black police to act as his body-guard while for protection the Italian could depend only upon his sword-cane.Each night, with the other white exiles of Matadi, the two adversaries met in the Cafe Franco-Belge.

There, with puzzled interest, Everett watched them sitting at separate tables, surrounded by mutual friends, excitedly playing dominoes.Outside the cafe, Matadi lay smothered and sweltering in a black, living darkness, and, save for the rush of the river, in a silence that continued unbroken across a jungle as wide as Europe.