第三节 案例及讨论
案例一 面料采购商与供应商的沟通
（一）案例概述
本案例从加拿大进口商的面料开发人员Cristina Avram与韩国面料出口商确定面料质量标准并初步谈价格开始，到加拿大进口商的面料采购跟单员Janet下面料采购订单、跟订单，最后到成衣出口商Gloria开始与面料出口商联系的全过程。
（二）案例情景
[第1封，2011年6月8日]韩国的helen给加拿大某品牌设计师面料开发助理Florence Boivin和Cristina Avram报价：面料DTK-19349，US$2.75/Y（yard）。同时，告知该面料有3米库存。
Dear Florence,
DTK-19349：US$2.75/Y，about 3mts（公吨）in the same color as header would be available.
Best regards,
Helen
[第2封，2011年8月6日]Cristina给Helen的上司Warren邮件。她首先要求Warren按照3000～5000码报FOB Korea价格（Warren在问题后面给了报价）。然后，她要求寄5码纯黑色布样（Warren回答说需要核查后再报知）。最后，她要求给出面料全部资料（Warren报幅宽58/60英寸，可裁剪幅宽为57英寸，克重为320克/码，100%Polyester）
Dear Warren,
Regarding item DTK-19349;100%Polyester;58＂
1.Please advise best current price for 3000~5000 yds in US$/m FOB Korea(Warren:$2.75/y FOB Korea).
2.Please send asap(as soon as possible)5m in solid black(Warren:Checking N will advise).
3.Please check and reconfirm all fabric information[Warren：58/60＂（Cuttable width：57＂）320克/码，100%Polyester].
Thank you,
Cristina
[第3封，2011年8月10日]Cristina询问Warren两个问题：一是交货期，二是CIF Montreal及CIF Shanghai。Warren分别给了回答。
Hi Warren,Helen,
Regarding DTK-19349 Korea:
1.Please advise delivery for 3000～5000 yds（yards，码数）of DTK-19349 all jet black（Warren：*Delivery for 3000～5000 yds would be 30～35 days）.
2.Please advise price CIF Montreal(We might make garments here in Canada)and CIF Shanghai(In case garments will be made in China)(Warren:$2.85/y CIF Montreal and$2.80/Y CIF Shanghai).
Thank you,
Cristina
[第4封，2011年8月16日]Cristina告诉Warren，她给了面料DTK-19349一个新的面料号以及一个新的颜色号：E750 Jet Black 148。E750的基本技术指标是：100%Polyester；Cuttable 57”；320克/码approx 235gr/sqm[2]2.
Hi Warren,
Please note that we assign Cor fabric&color reference number E750 Jet Black 148 to your DTK-19349，100%Polyester，cuttable 57 320克/码（approx 235gr/sqm）.
1.Please complete and e-mail fabric tech sheet by return.
2.Please let us know if your office in Korea is able to find sampling yardage available.
Janet will contact you by separate e-mail to place the order.
Thank you,
Cristina
[第5封，2011年8月17日]Cristina给Helen发邮件追要6～10米样品布，并要求Helen回复面料的洗涤要求、色牢度、易燃性、幅宽稳定性及起球性等面料技术指标。
Dear Helen,
Sampling yardage:We need urgently 6~10m of E750(DTK-19349)for our fit samples to submit to customer for approval.Please let us know when can you send us this yardage.
Regarding fabric tech sheet:mill's care instructions,color fastness,flammability,dimensional stability,pilling.
Thank you for your assistance in this matter,
Cristina
[第6封，2011年8月17日]以下是Helen给Cristina回信并附采购合同所需要的供应商、工厂名称、合同编号、供应商代号、面料代号等内容：
Dear Cristina,
Please see the FDS filled in.
Supplier Name:DATONG CO.,LTD.
Mill name:DATONG CO.,LTD.
（合同编号及供应商与采购商给面料的代号，以及签约日期。）
P.O.#006556
Supplier Ref#:DTK-19349
Date:AUG 17,2011
Cor Ref#:E750
（第一条是价格，具体价格没有填写。）
1.Price
-Sampling price by meter
-Bulk price by meter fob mill:US$
-Cif factory in city:by meter US$
（第二条是面料成分、克重、幅宽。）
2.Generic fiber content
-100%Polyester
-Weight grams per square meter:235g/sm
-Cutable width in inches=inside selvages or pinholes:57＂
-Only one width to be advised not double as 57/58(only as 57 cutable)
（第三条是每色最低起订量、每缸最多色差、产地。）
3.Smallest dye lot to be shipped-1000 yrds
-Maximum#of shades per dye lot-3
-Country of origin for bulk:Korea
（第四条要求不含禁用的偶氮染料、每卷布不得有边到边色差以及头到尾色差；每卷布的长度从50码到70码的占总卷数的90%，30到40码的占10%，长度小于30码的布要经过买方确认才能发货。）
4.All products must be Azo free
-No tolerance allowed to side to side shading or roll end to end shading
-Roll length must be 90%,50 to 70 yards and 10%,30 to 40 yards
-Any other length must be approved when confirming order
（第五条是洗涤要求：低温下洗衣机洗涤；不得用含氯洗涤剂漂洗；平铺晾干。）
5.Mill's care instructions to include:
-Washing instruction:machine wash cold at low temperature
-Bleaching instruction:only non-chlorine bleach when needed
-Drying instruction:do not tumble dry,dry clean(flat dry)
-Ironing instruction:cool iron if needed
[第六条是后处理效果：褪色可以达到4.5级（标准为4级）；干洗色牢度4.5级（标准4级）；服装可燃性为普通级。]
6.Type of finishing applied to fabric
-Color fastness to crocking:4.5 Grade(requirement:4)
-Colorfastness to dry cleaning:4.5 Grade(requirement:4)
-Flammability for wearing apparel:plain
[第七条为幅宽稳定性：干洗长度增加0.7%，宽度减少0.5%（标准+/-3%）。]
7.Dimensional stability:
-To wash warm+tumble dry
-To wash cold+tumble dry
-To wash cold+line dry
-To hand wash cold+line dry
-To dry cleaning:length,+0.7;width;-0.9(requirement:+/-3%)
-To press steam/shrinkage:length;-0.3;width:-0.5(requirement:+/-3%)
[第八条为起球：试验结果4.5级（标准3级）。]
8.Pilling:pilling test requirement;3;result,4.5 Grade
Brgds,
Helen
[第7封，2011年8月17日]负责面料采购的跟单员Janet给Warren和Helen的采购通知，她把正式采购合同作为附件同时发给卖方。采购合同中的采购量是700码。同时，在邮件中她还询问卖方是否有700码的黑色库存，如果没有库存，要求大货的交货期是9月9日。
Hello Warren/Helen,
I hope you are both well.
Pls(Please)see attachment for FPO 006556.
Need 700y black.Pls advise if you have stock greige or black yardage for immediate delivery?
If no stock,pls confirm 09-Sept ETD.
Pls send P/I confirming details.
Thank you,
Janet
[第8封，2011年8月18日]Warren向Janet解释说，由于该面料存在纱线起订量，面料的最低起订量为3000码。由于Janet一方仅仅订700码，Warren一方要支付纱厂、针织厂、染厂以及后处理工厂一笔附加费，还有韩国到上海的海运费、出口许可费用以及装卸费用等。Warren一方希望700码仅仅是Janet一方的样品单，并请双方确认是否可以接受USA$3.8/码CIF Shanghai。如果能够确认上述价格，请将Jet Black的颜色样寄给Helen，交货期在订单确认后的25天内。
Hi Janet,
I am fine and ask Helen how is she.
1.Well received your fabric PO with tks.However,this item is made of specialty yarn which requires high twist and there is a certain minimum for making the special yarn which is 5000 yds but I negotiated previously with the yarn maker to reduce it to 3000 yds to accomodate your inquiry 3000~5000 yds.
2.Now,your fabric PO is stating that 700 yds only and in order to prosecute this small minimum,we need to pay for the sur-charges to the yarn maker,knitter,dyeing and finisher.
Besides that,additional sea frt fm Korea to Shanghai,transportation charges,export permittance fee,discharging at the CY fees etc would be involved.
3.Hope this 700 yds would be just the sampling orders which could generate the reasonable amount of Bulk orders and pls cnfm(confirm)$3.80/y CIF Shanghai for 700 yds as best.
4.If you cnfm,pls send us the standard Jet Black Color to the following Korea address,attn:Helen and inform us the awb#.The delivery would be 25days after the firm order cnfmation.
Thanks,
Warren
[第9封，2011年8月19日]Janet回邮件告知Warren：订单数量已经从700码增加到3200码（Warren在该邮件中确认该订单）。Janet希望知道从韩国釜山到上海的运输时间（Warren回答3～4天）。Janet希望能在9月3日收到面料的船样，以便能够在9月9日之前确认大货布并完成付款。Janet同时要求Warren将形式发票发过来（Warren回答说HELEN会在8月18日将形式发票发给Janet）。
另外，Janet在同一封邮件中让服装出口商Gloria与Warren及Helen联系产前确认样的样品布以及面料交货信息。
Hello Warren,
It was nice talking to you!
Pls see attachment for revised FPO 006556.
Revised from 700y to 3200y(Warren:Well received the revised PO and cnfmd.Tks).
Need transit time from Busan to Shanghai(Warren:3~4 days).
Pls send s/s by 03-Sept in order to have it approved,issue payment and sail on/before 09-Sept,11
Pls send P/I[Warren:Helen will be sending you the P/I tomorrow(8/18).Tks].
Hello Gloria,
Pls contact Warren/Helen for additional information and/or sampling needed.
Thank you,
Janet
（三）案例讨论
请讨论面料开发的Cristina与负责面料采购跟单员Janet的工作职责。
案例二 面料的质量问题
（一）案例概述
本案例面料工厂与进口商就面料质量问题出现了严重的争议，这场争议从6月10日开始一直持续到7月19日，最后由于成衣交期非常紧迫，进口商被迫接受面料。
（二）案例情景
[第1封，2011年5月12日]服装进口商负责面料跟单的Christopher发邮件给面料供应商Vicky，让他们将合同号为FPO E383-006468的面料发给服装出口商NFTC的Mrs.Nh。同时，他还让Mrs.Nh将服装加工厂的地址发给Vicky，如果她需要样品布也可以直接向Vicky索要。
Dear Vicky,
Please find attached FPO E383-006468 that is going to NFTC.
Mrs.Nh please advise your garment factory address and if you need sample yardage please ask Vicky for it.
Thank you,
Christopher
[第2封，2011年5月31日]服装进口商的面料跟单Janet向Vicky索要3码面料大货船样，并要求Vicky报面料大货的实际数量。
Hello Vicky,
I hope you are both well.
Pls reconfirm if 3Y s/s(shipping sample)was also sent to Montreal office?
Pls advise exact quality ready to be shipped after s/s approval.
Best rgds(regards),
Janet
[第3封，2011年6月1日]Vicky通知Janet已经用快递发来了3米船样。
Dear Janet,
We will send you the 3mts s/s by UPS.Tracking NO.is H892 8284 657,pls noted and give us comment once you receipt,tks!
Best regards,
Vicky/Helen
[第4封，2011年6月8日]Christopher通知Vicky送来的面料大货船样不能确认，由于面料太粗太硬，颜色也不够黑。他要求面料工厂重新做后处理，重送样品确认。
Dear Vicky&Helen,
E383-006468 is not approved.The fabric is too stiff and harsh also the color is not black enough.
Please have the fabric refinish and let us know when we will have second shipping sample for our approval.
Thank you,
Chris
[第5封，2011年6月8日]Vicky不同意Christopher不确认面料的理由，Vicky认为毛料的手感就是有些粗和硬，并让Christopher将现在的面料同上一季的大货样品做一下比较。同时，Vicky认为毛料的颜色也不可能与色样百分之百相同，能做到90%相同就应该可以。希望Christopehr能确认面料。
Dear Chris,
For wool item the hand feel is always like this,you can check with the last s/sample.this is normal.
Also regarding the color,the wool color match is just 90%same as the stardand,pls noted so we think our s/sample is OK,pls adv.
Best regards,
Vicky/Helen
[第6封，2011年6月9日]Christopher回答Vicky说他已经比较了样品，以前的样品比起这次的要软和黑，并要求Vicky必须重新做后处理并重新确认。
Dear Vicky&Helen,
The hand feel was much softer for the last order and blacker.
Fabric must be refinish and resent for our approval.The customer will not accept it.
Thank you,
Chris
[第7封，2011年6月9日]Vicky同意重做后处理，但他认为颜色还会有所不同。他请Christopher确认目前样品的颜色。
Dear Chris,
We can refinished the hand feel and resend s/s you for approved.
But for the color do pls noted that the color can't be same on each production,even one bulk goods still have different lot color,so pls accept this color,thanks!
Best regards,
Vicky/Helen
[第8封，2011年6月10日]在收到Vicky重新处理的大货样后，Christopher仍不能确认，这次的原因是大货布有异纱。
Dear Vicky&Helen,
E383-006468 is rejected for the second time.We found that the fabric has lots of white foreign yarns woven in the fabric.
Please check on your side and let us know how we will solve the problem.
Thank you,
Chris
[第9封，2011年6月17日]Vicky让Christopher拍个照片让他看一下布的异纱，因为Vicky检查了他手上的样品没有异纱。
Dear Chris,
Would you pls send us the picture of the white foreign yarn,because we check our s/sample there is no white foreign yarn left,pls noted and adv(advise).
Best regards,
Vicky/Helen
[第10封，2011年6月20日]Christopher给Vicky发了照片，并告诉Vicky样品布不仅有异纱还有抽纱现象。他要求Vicky提供担保函，一旦面料出现问题面料工厂要负100%的责任。同时，他还让出口商Mrs.Nh在提货之前到面料厂去检验面料。
Dear Vicky,
Please see attachment for the problem we found in the fabric.Also,we found yarn missing.
Please let us have a letter of guarantee that is there is any problem with the fabric that the mill will be responsible 100%for it.You must do 100%inspection before shipping.
Mrs.Nh if you need to make inspection before shipping,please do so.
Thank you,
Chris
[第11封，2011年6月21日]服装出口商Mrs.Nh回信认为无论如何检验都不会解决异纱和抽纱问题，作为服装生产厂只能将面料提回工厂，并让面料生产厂同意退换有问题的布。同时，她还通知服装进口商，由于面料的问题，成衣的交货期将会推迟。
Dear Chris,
For E383 white foreign yarn and yarn missing problem,it could not be cleaned up absolutely,though we inspect the bulk in the fabric mill,it could not be resolved and the defects could not be avoid when bulk cutting.So if still need us to use this E383 fabric for bulk garment production,we will keep all the fabric pieces with defects,the mill must replace the good fabric to us.Pls kindly cfm it is OK,so as us to arrange fabric picking up.
Also E383 fabric is long time delayed than the delivery of fabric PO(Purchase Order),we could not keep the garment delivery of PO#53306,the garment delivery will be extended accordingly,pls kindly note.
Thanks and best regards,
Nh
[第12封，2011年6月22日]Vicky给Chris回信表示：（1）Vicky认为他只能去掉主要的异纱但不可能保证面料100%完美，Vicky认为Christopher以前做过毛料应该知道这个道理（Christopher在邮件后面反驳说他从来没有遇到这种情况）；（2）Vicky同意退还有问题的面料，但是如果服装工厂剪裁后才发现面料问题则不能退换（Christopher在邮件后面提醒服装出口商Mrs.Nh安排验布，如果发现哪一卷并布有问题赶快让面料工厂退换，他还认为Vicky的说法不合理，他应该保证面料的质量）；（3）Vicky说已经有10码面料重做完了后处理，如果Christopher需要可以寄去，这个数量会加到大货的发票中（Christopher回答需要10码样布，并追问Vicky是否100%检验了大货布）。
Dear Chris,
1.We will clean the big white foreign yarn,but we can't gurantee the goods is 100%perfect,if the white foreign yarn is very small or which can't easy to see we are afraid we will miss it,this is wool item,it is easy have foreign yarn,you have do this item before,you should know it(from christopher:we never had this problem before).
2.We will be responsible for bulk,but the garment mill should be inspect the goods before cutting.if there is some problem we can replace the good fabric,but if your garment mill cut the fabric,sorry we will not be responsible for fabric piece,pls noted(from Christopher:Mrs.Nh please arrange inspection and if you find no problem then take the goods.If any problems are on the roll please pull out and ask the mill to replace immediately.Vicky it is not fair if they start cutting they cannot stop production if they find defect.You will have to guarantee that the fabric is 100%perfect with no defects).
3.We already finished the cleaning fabric,if you need another 10yards we can send it to you,but this 10yards sampling charge we will plus on s/doc(shipping documents).Pls noted and confirm by return(from Christopher:yes,we need the 10yds to Montreal.Did you do 100%inspection on the fabric?).
Best regards,
Vicky/Helen
[第13封，2011年7月7日]服装出口商发现面料有很多问题，不得不将面料退回面料厂。Christopher告知Vicky退回的面料有脏污、破洞，布面起毛还有很多棉皮。Christopher让Vicky回答他将如何重做后处理以及什么时候能处理好面料，服装加工厂将会派人去面料厂重新验布。同时，他还让Vicky送3码参考样。
Dear Vicky&Helen,
Noted that E383 was returned to you by NFTC,please look at the fabric and you will see clearly that it has lots of contamination.Also the fabric looks distress,worn out and very hairy and it is picking up a lot of lint.
Please advise how you will refinish the fabric and when you will ship it back to NFTC.Please let us know when the exact date when the fabric will be ready because NFCT will do a full inspection in your mill.Also you will have to send us 3yds for our reference.
Thank you,
Chris
[第14封，2011年7月12日]Vicky告诉Christopher他已经看过退回的面料，这些面料同去年他发给Christopher的面料完全相同，他不认为有什么问题。他反问Christopher是否能够提供一个标准以便他返修面料。他又抱怨说他用的是与去年同样的纱、用的是同样的机器，为什么去年确认了今年却不能确认。
Dear Chris,
We just received the goods today,but we inspected the goods,it is same as our last year goods,we don't know problem we need fix.Would you pls give us standard then we can according to your standard to fix the goods?We used the same yarn same machine to do this goods.We are confused why you confirm the last year goods and refused this goods,pls adv.
Best regards,
Vicky/Helen
[第15封，2011年7月12日]Janet找到了去年的样布，JANET认为今年的布同去年的布简直没有可比性。今年的面料发灰色，没有质感，显得发旧，她将寄一片样布给VICKY自己比较。Janet认为现在的选择有两个：第一，立刻取消该订单；第二，马上把面料寄给服装加工厂，让服装厂选择能用的用，不能用的部分服装加工厂将不会付款。如果服装加工厂已经付款，Vicky应该退回无用面料的货款。
Hello Vicky,
Goods received this year are not the same as last year,there is no comparison.This year's production looks grey,flat,worn out.I am sending you back today swatches for your reference.
We have two options:
1.Cancel fabric order&garment order immediately.
2.Ship back fabric to NFTC on consignment,they will cut and pay only what is used for garment orders,they will not be paying for left over fabric or damages.
If NFTC has already paid for fabric pls confirm by e-mail that you will return value of unusable fabric.
Thank you,
Janet
[第16封，2011年7月15日]Vicky说他收到了Janet寄来的去年的质量比较好的样品，将其与今年面料厂的面料作了比较，没有发现什么问题。唯一的不同是色差，由于今年使用的毛是再生毛，染色效果与纯天然毛是不能比的，但是可以看到，纱的质量以及布的结构和质量与去年是相同的。当然，不同时间生产的质量总会有些差别，可以将今年的样品发给任何一个供应商，让他们来评一评布料是否有质量问题。
Vicky认为，Janet的客户看到第一次寄的船样时提出了色差问题，他们已经重新做了后处理并重新寄了10米给对方，但对方并没有提出任何异议，所以他们认为对方已经确认了第二次样品。
现在，Vicky建议Janet一方接受现有质量的布料，以便服装加工厂能够立即开始服装生产，还可以将成衣赶出来。Vicky愿意承担面料的往返运费，大约150美元。
Dear Janet,
We are just received your UPS package and see the two quality sample.I do check the difference.
We do not find the problem of that fabric surface been brushed as garment mill inform us,the only difference I think is color shade,as I advice you before that different lot production the color will more or less have some color shade.Also this is the recircle wool,it is not 100%pure wool,so the color can not compared with solid dyed.But you can see the yarn and the construction and quality are the same.Different time production alwasy will have more or less different.You can show to other supplier if such quality is problem or not.
Also when customer received our first time shipping sample they inform us the color shade,and we are alredy re-finished it immediately.And second time we send 10 mts to u again.But your never give us any comment.So we think u approved second time shipping sample,and we are insepction the goods according to second time shipping sample.
Now my suggest way is you accept the quality and you garment mill can arrange the production immediately.Today is july 15 and they can rush the goods and you allow them to ship a littlt bit later.I can ship the goods to them immediately and I will afford the extra two time local transfer charge(FORM garment mill return to us and send to them again charge).This charge is also expensive,it is more then USD150.So for this small quantity order we afford this charge(it is around USD0.15/mts of extra charge share on each mts)and you extend some days of the delvery i think this is the best way.
Best regards,
Vicky
[第17封，2011年7月16日]Janet回答Vicky：（1）明天请把面料退还服装加工厂；（2）请确认你们会将服装厂剪裁后废料及不能裁剪布的钱退给服装加工厂；（3）我要重申我们已经拒绝了你们第二次寄来的样品，我们随后发了很多邮件让你们处理异纱，我非常奇怪为什么你说我们没有给你们样品意见。
Hello Vicky,
1.Pls proceed to return fabric tomorrow to Mrs Nh.
2.Pls confirm you are accepting to return money for all wastage and for un-usable fabric after Mrs Nh has finished cutting garments.This must be agreed and very clear between Rising Star and NFTC.
3.I would like to reconfirm with you that 2nd s/s was also rejected(see attachment)and many e-mails followed asking you to clean up foreign yarns,etc.I am surprised why you say we did not send you comment on s/s.
4.Please advise telephon NO.where we can contact you for our reference,need office and cellular.It is important that you contact Mrs Nh to discuss claims and make arrangements for immediate delivery.
Thank you,
Janet
[第18封，2011年7月16日]Vicky回答：第一，她认为所有的面料质量都没问题，如果面料有问题那么服装工厂就不应该裁剪，所以根本不存在由于选好的部分裁剪避开不好的部分所造成的浪费；第二，请看附件可以证明我们第二次寄了三米布，你们说有白点不接受，我们重做了后处理，并第三次寄了十米给你们，你们没有给我们任何评论，我们认为你们接受了第三次样品，否则我们也不会将大货布发给服装工厂，并付了运费；第三，我们第三次寄去的十米样品是我们能做到的最好效果，这是再生毛，白点不是异纱，是白毛，布含有毛，有白毛很正常，这也就是我们不能改善、也不知道怎么改善的原因。所以，我要向你重申，这批布同我们第三次寄给你们的样品一样，如果你们接受，我们就发货，由于整批货都是一样的，所以不存在一部分好、一部分不好的情况，所以请你们决定发货还是不发货。
Dear Janet,
First:I think all the roll all the piecce are the same as our second time sending sample.If it is OK,all the bulk will be OK.If it is not OK,all the bulk can not cut.So it is not have the situation that have wastage on cutting of some are good and some are not good.
Second:For the enclosed file is we send the second time shipping sample of 3 mts(meters)and you inform us have white dot not accept,and we re-finished it and send 10 mts third time.So when u received 10 mts,u never give us any comment so we think u approved third time 10 mts sample,and we ship the goods,otherwise we will not ship the goods and pay a lot of transport charge.
Third:Third time 10 mts shipping sample is the best we can down as I advice you before that this is made by recircle wool.The white dot is not foreign yarn.It is the wool hairly not the dot.I have check which u send back to us yesterday.The fabric is not what white dot,just white hairly.It have wool,so hairly is the normal situation.that is why we did not know how to improve.
So I have the clarify again and honest speak to you that the goods is the same as third time 10mts sample.If you can accept,then we can ship it,all the goods are the same,not some are good some are bad.So I think u have to make a dicision to ship or not,othewise we can not afford any go back and forth transfer charge of this small quantity.
Best regards,
Vicky
[第19封，2011年7月16日]服装出口商Nh给服装进口商Janet和面料生产厂Vicky发邮件催她们迅速将面料发给服装厂，否则大家前面的所有努力都白费了。
Dear Vicky/Helen,
Pls(Please)ship E383 bulk fabric to our garment FTY(factory)immed,otherwise we really could not catch the garment delivery,thus both of efforts will be meaningless.Pls CFM(confirm)by return,TKS(thanks).Urgent!
Thanks and best regards,
Nh
[第20封，2011年7月16日]Vicky给Nh发邮件说：根据我们电话中达成的协议，我会马上给你们发送布料，但你们要尽量使用面料并且也不会因为面料发灰、质感不够、发旧等原因退料或索赔。如果大货面料有诸如破洞等问题，我们同意退货。
Dear Mrs.Nh
According to our talking by telphone just now,we will send the goods to your garment mill ASAP(as soon as possible).You will do your best to use the fabric as more as you can and also you will not return the goods or claim due to the problem as below mentioned(white dots looks grey,flate,worn out).If our bulk have another problem,big hole,you can return the goods.But if you return the goods due to white dots looks grey,flate,worn out,we will not pay for the freight charge.Pls noted.
Best regards,
Vicky/Helen
[第21封，2011年7月16日]进口商的老板Mas给面料商Vicky发邮件说：我很遗憾地通知你我将要取消订单，我们从来也不想浪费任何好的面料，那会导致我们成衣数量和利润的减少。如果你们到现在还不愿意合作的话，就请取消这个面料订单，这是我最后的警告，请自己作决定。
Hello,
If this fabric is not shipped out as of today.I regret to inform you as I will cancel the order.We have no intention to dismiss any yardage that is in good quality,which will result in less gmts shipping and less profit for all parties.If you are not willing to corporate at this late in stage,Pls cancel this fabric order.Last warning,your decision
Regards,
Mas
[第22封，2011年7月16日]Janet通知Vicky让她立即确认并立即发货，同时承担一切废料损失。
Hello Vicky,
Pls confirm fabric was shipped and you will take full responsibility for damages and un-usable fabric.
I did not get an e-mail confirming.
Thank you,
Janet
[第23封，2011年7月17日]Vicky回答Janet说现在面料已经在服装工厂，她已经同服装厂的Ding谈好，服装厂不会因为面料有白点、发灰、质感不够、发旧等原因退料或索赔，如果面料有破洞她将负全责。
Dear Janet,
The goods have arrived in garment mill And as we talked with Mr Ding on sat.they will use the fabric as more as they can,and they will not return the goods or claim due to the problem as below mentioned(white dots looks grey,flate,worn out).If our bulk have another problem,big hole,then rising start will be full responsible for this damages fabric.Pls noted.
Best regards,
Vicky/Helen
[第24封，2011年7月18日]Nh给服装进口商的Joe发邮件让他确认有白点、脏污、磨损的样品，并发邮件确认。同时，他还让Joe通知他们的QC不要因上述问题拒绝成衣。
Dear Joe,
As per our phone conversation last Friday night:you accepted the white dots,dirty and worn out surface on E383 fabric as the yardage we sent to Cor from bulk.Pls kindly recfm all these by return e-mail.Also pls kindly adv your QC department do not reject the goods due to these problems in final inspection.So that we can proceed,tks.
Thanks and best regards,
Nh
[第25封，2011年7月19日]Joe通知服装出口商；受面料影响的订单可以用快船运往美国。
Hi Nh,
For your pos#053313+053311+053306+053274,they should be sailed on Wednesday Aug.10th by Matson,could not be late.
Regards,
Joe
[第26封，2011年7月20日]进口商生产经理Lisa通知销售员Sandra：订单53306到达客户货仓的时间将晚三天，目前到客人货仓的时间是8月24日，而不是8月21日。
Hi Sandra
Really need your help.we need to ship these goods on Matson vessel but goods will only come in on Aug.24th but not Aug.21th.Can you please get me the 3 extra days needed?
Thanks,
Lisa
[第27封，2011年7月20日]Joe让Sandra确认新的入仓期并更改订单系统的记录。Hi Sandra，
Could you kindly confirm the CXL（cancel，取消）can be extended to Aug.24th as below requested by Lisa yesterday？Thank you.
Regards,
Joe
[第28封，2011年7月20日]Sandra回答Joe，她昨天与Lisa谈过，Lisa让她等工厂确认了开船期后再向客人要求延期交货。
Hi Joe,
As per my conversation with Lisa yesterday.She wanted to wait for confirmed ETD from maker before asking for extension.
Thanks,
Sandra
[第29封，2011年7月20日]Joe通知Sandra开船期已经确认为8月10日，请Sandra与客人确认入客人仓期为8月25日。
Hi,Sandra
Maker confirmed ETD Aug.10th by Matson,so please confirm the CXL date to Aug.25th,thank you.
Regards,
Joe
（三）案例讨论
（1）对于这场关于面料质量的争论，你同意进口商关于面料质量问题的观点，还是同意面料工厂对面料问题的解释？
（2）在服装生产中有一些日期很重要，比如Lab Dip的确认期、面料的船样确认期、面料的离厂期、服装开裁期、服装离厂期、服装ETD、服装ETA、服装In House期，请谈谈每个时期的工作内容并探讨它们之间的关系。
案例三 短料问题
（一）案例概述
N818、V659、V672三款服装使用E287面料，工厂生产完N818、V659款后发现，余下的面料只够生产874件V672，而V672的订单数量是1200件，中间商Gloria向进口商代表Lisa提出了一类问题。
（二）案例情景
[第1封，2011年5月16日]服装出口商Gloria的服装进口商Lisa询问：由于E287这种面料被MWW款式用掉了太多，所以可以额外用在V672这一款上的只有1006米。
Gloria给Lisa算了一笔账：目前已经收面料11287.40米，减去N818用掉2200米、V659用掉5700米、V658用掉3100米、40米做成衣样品、20米作为面料样品，现在只剩200米。
所以，目前可以用在V672上的面料只有1206米（1006+200=1206米）。V672的面料单件用量是1.38m/pc（piece，片，块），所以可以出成衣874件，而订单数量是1200件，短缺约27%。
由于我们马上要到面料厂提货，所以请赶快检查一下是否还有面料，免得之后找到面料再次增加我们的运费成本。另外，我们需要根据面料的数量订辅料。
Hi Lisa,
Pls see below from factory and urgent advise if you can accept shortage of V672/E287(PO.52953):
1.The consumption for MWW styles are exceed too much,now we could only get extra E287 fabric 1006m,then for V672 the cutting plan will be reduced greatly!
2.We had ever get 11287.40m totally.
N818:We take 2220m.
V659:The plan to take 1.53×1.06×3512=around 5700m.
V658:We plan to take 1.47×1.06×1992=around 3100m.
Samples making:40m
Sent to Cor:20m
So now we could have 11287.40-2220-5700-3100-40-20=200m left,this is the best result.As last time I said there are some problems about the fabric:such us unstable width,shortage,defectives.
V672,the fabric quantity is 200+1006=1206m,as Cor and fabric mill said there is no more fabric.Now the consumption is about 1.38m/pc,we could only cut 874 pcs(order quantity is 1200 pcs,-27%),that is the maximum quantities we can cut.The final cutting report will be advised later.
3.We will pick up the E287 fabric soon,otherwise,it may cause extra transportation cost if you find more fabric later.Also,we need to make the order of all trims,pls advise ASAP.
Thanks.
Gloria
[第2封，2011年5月17日]Lisa问Gloria为什么会少这么多面料，并让Gloria把排料图Marker发过来核对。
Hi Gloria
Really cannot understand why are you so short for this fabric?Based on the estimates we have done and actually produced in the past,we have given you more than enough fabric to produce all.
Please send me your markers so that I can have the pattern room review again but really there is no more fabric that we can send to you.
Awaiting the markers overnight.
Thanks,
Lisa
[第3封，2011年5月23日]Gloria回答Lisa，她认为面料短缺主要是由于面料的幅宽不够，并请Lisa问面料工厂要回短缺的料或退钱。
Hi Lisa,
Hope you had relaxing holiday.
For V672,factory said when they cut V658 and V659L,they found very serious shortage on each roll(average 3 meters per roll)and narrow/unstable fabric width is even more serious.Now they have left fabric for V672 to cover around 400 pcs while original order quantity is 1,200 pcs.Pls note factory already booked trims to cover 900 pcs as per initial calculation,pls check if you can get more fabric for factory.Otherwise,it may have problem for you as it is too much shortage and factory also facing big loss of the left over trims.
This is really not normal situation.Do you have chance telling fabric mill to compensate fabric or money to Mailyard?
Thanks,
Gloria
[第4封，2011年5月25日]Lisa回答Gloria：她不能允许这么大短装，请Gloria提供幅宽不够的证据。
Hello Gloria,
Really cannot afford these shortages in fabric.This is from the new yardage or all yardage you have on hand?
I need now to prove them for this shortage.Can you send me examples of the narrow/unstable fabric?
Please arrange to send today as this is very very disturbing news.
Awaiting clarification if all or just the 1200 replacement yardage?
Thanks,
Lisa
[第5封，2011年5月25日]Gloria通知Lisa工厂已经把两次提回的料都裁剪了，一共可以做282件，而订单是1200件，同时她请求将服装交期延期至7月12日。
Hi Lisa,
E287:all fabric were cut both 1st and 2nd lot.After completed MWW orders,factory could cut V672 quantity as below:
S:94PCS
M:94PCS
L:47PCS
XL:47PCS
Total:282pcs
Compared to order quantity 1200 pcs,it is far below order quantity.I think you have problem with buyer and factory is also losing big money for left over trim.They contacted fabric mill,they have greige on hand and it takes around 10 days for dyeing.If you confirm to make fabric replacement today,the garment delivery will be Jul 12.Pls confirm workable.
For serious shortage,I am waiting some pictures from factory and will send you recap of all the problems tomorrow.
Thanks,
Gloria
[第6封，2011年5月25日]Lisa对Gloria报出的短装数量非常吃惊，她说她以前做过很多这种面料的服装，从来没有遇到这种事情。她问Gloria是否已经将证明幅宽不够的样品寄过来了。同时，Lisa确认了新交期为7月12日。
Hello Gloria,
I really cannot be short and cannot u/stand(understand)why you have such a shortage as we have made these type of garments in the past and have not encountered such things.
Did you send me the cuttings from the rolls to show me the damaged fabric and variance in width?
Urgently get what you require to make up the missing quantity.
Re Delivery-noted and confimred you will require to July 12.Joe will send you revised pos
Urgently advise on the above.
Thanks,
Lisa
（三）案例讨论
（1）短料的可能原因是什么？
（2）短料对面料工厂、服装工厂、进口商、最终客户的影响有哪些？
案例四 多料问题
（一）案例概述
本案例出现了大量的多料，多出的料可以生产3600件。本次贸易活动的订料方是进口商，而买料方是出口商，出口商是按照进口商的计算数量购买的料。
（二）案例情景
[第1封，2011年5月20日]Nh告诉Joe她多出了4700米Y858，她问是否可以用于订单PO＃53172/53173 C226P/C226X或者用在下一个新的订单。
Dear Joe,
After cutting for all Y858 garment orders on hand,there is 4700m Y858 leftover.Could you pls kindly help to check and adv if we can cut the leftover fabric on PO#53172/53173 C226P/C226X or send us a new order to use these 4700m Y858 fabric.Thanks.
Best regards,
Nh
[第2封，2011年5月20日]Nh告诉Joe，如果将剩料用于PO＃53172 Y858 C226P和PO＃53173 Y858 C226X，可以裁剪出3200件。
Dear Joe,
Nice phone call with you just now.
If cutting the leftover 4700m average on PO#53172 Y858 C226P and PO#53173 Y858 C226X,it can cut about 1600pcs for each style,total 3200pcs.Could you pls kindly help to check and adv if it is acceptable,thanks a lot.
Best regards,
Nh
[第3封，2011年5月20日]Joe通知Nh请先不要裁剪4700米Y858，他们正在考虑如何使用。Joe请Nh把涉及Y858的款式的单用量发过来。
Hi Nh,
Please keep the 4700meters,don't cut,we are considering how to use it.
Please give us your unit consumption for each style,C225X,C225P,C226X,C226P,C295 asap.Thank you.
Regards,
Joe
[第4封，2011年5月24日]Joe与Nh确认了单用量后，将数据给了Lisa。
Hi Lisa,
See below,the unit consumption of below styles are:
C225P/C226P-53＂
C225X/C226X-66＂
C295-will offer next week.
Regards,
Joe
[第5封，2011年5月24日]Lisa收到Joe发来的单用量后，发现C225X款的实际单用量是1.833码，但预订面料时是按照1.98码订的，单用量多了8%，而多出的面料4700米正好占了总共订料55899米的8%。
Hi Mas,
Please note.
C225P=as per ding below,est is 53＂=1.47 yard which is exactly what Joe has given
C225x=as per ding below,est is 66＂=1.833 yard and we have given 1.98(8%overage)
FYI For Your Inspection，供你参考-the 8%is the exact overage for 4700m as she picked up 55899/4700=8%
Thanks,
Lisa
[第6封，2011年5月24日]Lisa通知Joe多余的料将用于新款，同时通知负责面料的Christopher将剩余4700米面料收为库存。
Hello Joe,
We will only use up in new style-too much overage to cut to what we have now.
Hi Chris,please add to inventory the extra yardage as this is due to consumption issue
Thanks,
Lisa
（三）案例讨论
（1）导致面料多的原因是什么？
（2）多出的面料应该如何处理？
案例五 面料延期影响成衣交期问题
（一）案例概述
出口商得到消息说进口商提供的面料的离厂期延迟了，出口商的跟单员Laura给进口商的跟单员Joe写邮件表示完不成表中订单，随后出口商的老板Clayton又发了一个邮件给进口商的老板Massimo说明完成不了的理由。
（二）案例情景
[第1封，2012年2月28日]服装出口商Laura给Joe写邮件说你们向面料工厂订的面料要到3月20日才到，而服装的交货期是4月11日，服装的生产期完全不够。
Hello Joe,
Please find the attached contract,the fabric would be ready by Mar.20th.That is totally unacceptable.
Our garment delivery is April 11th,so we can't accept any fabric delay even 1~2 days.
Please help us.Thank you.
B/rgds,
Laura
[第2封，2012年2月28日]服装出口商老板Clayton向服装进口商老板Mas解释为何他无法完成订单生产：大货面料在3月10日才能完成，然后面料工厂要寄船样给进口商确认，服装工厂还要做成衣产前确认样供进口商确认，这个过程会花费一个星期。一切确认后，面料工厂还要用2天时间将面料送到服装工厂，工厂剪裁还要3天，4月7日就要向港口送货，这样服装生产期只剩下10天左右。
Hi Mas,
10 minutes ago,we called the fabric supplier,the final information we got as follows:
E723,the fabric will be ready on 10th of march.Then they need to send bulk fabric for your approval.At same time we need to make PP samples for your approval.If all these procedure can be finished with in one week,it will be around 18th.Fabric send to my factory need 2 days mini,garment factory prepare to cutting and put on line need 3days mini.10 days for us to rush all the garments are impossible.
Pls consider above points seriously,I can't rush all the garment within such short time.
B/R,
Clayton
（三）案例讨论
在上述案例中，你认为合理的面料生产完成期应该在什么时间？
[1]英寸（in）=2.54厘米（cm）。
[2]本书中出现的gr/sqm，g/sqm，g/sq，gr/sm，g/sm，都是gram/square meter缩写。